Rinse the fish
Rinse the whole white fish under cold water, then pat it very dry with paper towels so the skin steams cleanly instead of tasting muddy. Set it on a board or tray while you prep the aromatics.
Prep the aromatics
Peel the ginger and julienne it, then divide it into two equal piles, one for steaming and one for the finish. Trim the scallions: cut 2 into 5 cm lengths for the steamer and julienne the remaining 3 for topping. Make 2 or 3 shallow diagonal slashes on each side of the fish so the seasoning and steam can reach the flesh.
Season the fish
Rub the fish inside and out with the fine salt and Shaoxing wine. Tuck a few of the ginger matchsticks and scallion lengths into the cavity, then let the fish sit for 10 minutes while you mix the sauce.
Mix the sauce
In a small bowl, whisk together the light soy sauce, water, the remaining Shaoxing wine, sugar, toasted sesame oil, and a pinch of white pepper until the sugar dissolves. Keep it nearby so you can pour it on as soon as the fish is ready.
Steam the fish
Bring the water in your steamer basket setup to a full boil, then set the fish on a heatproof plate, scatter the remaining ginger and scallion lengths around and over it, and steam for 12 minutes, or until the flesh is opaque and just flakes at the bone. Keep the lid on and the heat steady so the steam stays strong.
Finish and serve
Lift the fish out carefully and pour off any liquid from the plate so the sauce stays concentrated. Spoon the seasoned sauce over the fish, pile on the reserved ginger and scallion julienne, and add the optional cilantro sprigs. In a small pan, heat the neutral oil until it is smoking hot, then immediately pour it over the aromatics so they sizzle. Serve right away.

















